The Royal Barge Procession

The Royal Barge Procession has taken place 11 times in the 53 year reign of the current Thai Monarch, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, Rama IX. This year to celebrate His Majesty's sixth cycle, or 72nd Birthday and to perform the kathin robe ceremony at Wat Arun Ratchawararam (The Temple of Dawn), the Royal Barge Ceremony took place on 4th November 1999. This spectacle of 52 barge rowed by a crew of 2,082 men from the Royal Thai Navy stretched out for 1,110 metres along the river and was 90 metres wide. The journey from Tha Wasukri to Wat Arun took just one hour to complete. The 4-km stretch of the river was closed to traffic for the whole day. Phra Pinklao Bridge was closed from 1pm as the procession passed underneath it and by Thai Royal protocol no one can be physically higher than His Majesty.

For those of our readers who were not able to witness the spectacle first hand, here are some images of the ceremony togeter with information about the event.

His Majesty the King boarded Subanahonsa (Golden Swan) at Tha Wasukri . The barge's hamsa figurehead is raised in flight with eyes bulging, nostrils flared and fangs protruding. It holds a crystal ball and tassel in its mouth with a garland and pendant draped around its neck Gilded and mirrored ornamentation represent it feathers appearing to flow in the wind along the length of its body to tits flame like tail.

King Rama VI first used this Royal barge in the Royal Barge Ceremony on 4th December 1912. It was another 20 years until it was seen in public again when King Rama VII used it in 1932 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Bangkok. According to the palace records it was not used again until His Majesty the King had it restored in 1952. The custom of the Royal Barge Ceremony was re-started again in 1957 to celebrate the 25th century of the Buddhist era. Then only 39 barges were taking part in the ceremony.

Later in 1959 King Rama IX ordered a royal barge procession to present the Kathin robes to the congregation of monks at Wat Arun but he was to discover that time had caused some of them to be damaged and out of order.

The Royal Thai Navy, the Fine Arts Department and the Royal Household worked together to construct 11 pairs of new Dang royal ceremonial barges. Using some new hulls and some renewed and restored bows the result was 8 pairs of mythical figure animal bows which are the only barges which are allowed to be armed. After the royal barge procession of 1967 it was to be another 15 years until they were to be seen on the river again.

In 1982 the ceremony was performed twice, on 5th April to celebrate the Rattanakosin Bicentennial of Bangkok and 13th April Songkran Day -The Thai New Year. They were next seen in 1987 for the royal Kathin ceremony and it was then another nine years until the Royal Barge Ceremony celebrated the Golden Jubilee of HM the King in 1996.

Accompanying His Majesty were His Royal Highness Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn and his sister Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn traveled on Narayana Song Suba. The original barge featuring the god Vishnu riding a garuda, was built during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1857).

The present barge was commissioned by the Royal Thai Navy and the Fine Arts Department to commemorate His Majesty's Golden Jubilee and was launched 9th May 1996. The Royal Barge is 44.30 m long with a beam of 3.20m and a hull of 1.10. Her company consists of 50 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers fore and aft, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 royal insignia bearers.

The Anantanagaraj Royal Barge is used to carry the Kathin robes. It ranks second to Subanahongsa, and as an intricate figurehead of a seven-headed naga, a mythical serpent that is a symbol of water. The first royal barge of this name was built during the reign of King Rama VI (1851-1868). The present barge was launched on 15th April 1914 and is 44.85m long with a beam of 3.17m and a hull of 94cm. She has a crew of 54 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 royal insignia bearers.

The Anantanagaraj Royal Barge is used to carry the Kathin robes. It ranks second to Subanahongsa, and as an intricate figurehand of a seven-headed naga, a mythical serpent that is a symbol of water. The first royal barge of this name was built during the reign of king rama VI (1851-1868).

The present barge was launched on 15th April 1941 and is 44.85m long with a beam of 3.17m and a hull of 94cm. She has a crew of 54 oarsman, 2 steersman, 2 officers,1 stnndard bearer, signalman, 1 chanter and 7 royal in signia bearers.

Her Majesty the Queen was to watch the ceremony from the balcony of the Royal Thai Navy Institute. She eagerly watch its progress down the river with a pair binoculars and was seen to be pointing the feature of the various barges to her grandchildren who accompanied her to the event. With the backdrop of Grand Palace across river, this was a perfect setting to watch the procession work its way to Wat Arun just next door.

Before the procession started floating branches and debris was scooped from the river. Almost unnoticed a team of frogmen tracked the procession and a waterborne ambulance in a speedboat was on standby just in case. There was an unseen high level of security presence .

Every available vantagepoint along the route was crowded with loyal Thais anxious for a glimpse of their King. Restaurants, private homes and piers from Tha Watsukri to the Temple of Dawn were also selling seats.

Tourism Authority of Thailand had arranged viewing areas at The Bank of Thailand, Bangkok Noi Railway Station and the Naval Hydrographic Department with tickets at Baht 1,000, with demand far in of the number of seats available.

The entire procession is paddled to Wat Arun and there are three styles of paddling; normal paddling, hiprest paddling and bird-flight paddling, the style always used on the Royal Barges. To control the stroke rate four chants are sung at different times. The first Kroen-hay is used to indicate that the boat is ready to move off; the second chalaea-hay with its slow tempo is used as the barge is moving away from the pier; the third moonla-lay when the barges are moving down the river picking up speed ; the fourth with words about the kathin ceremony as the boat is approaching Wat Arun.

Traditionally the chanter would travel on the King's boat ahead of the monarch with his hands in a wai position. But today he travels on Anantanagaraj barge, the one that carries the Kathin robes. " In the boat where I sit there is a radio which transmits my voice to the other boats" explains Commodore Mongkol Saengsawang, Commander of The Royal Thai Navy's Small Craft Division who is also responsible for chanting the boats songs. " This lets all the rowers hear the boat song, while the royal barge in which the King is seated remains quiet. All that is heard on the King's boat is an occasional quiet exchange between the leaders of the oarsmen and the oarsmen themselves.

" The purpose of the procession mark the traditional end of the annual Buddhist Rain Retreat, or ok pansa, and is when kathin robes are presented to monks.

On the annual royal calendar the presentation begins on the first day after the Rain retreats, or wan ok pansa, when His Majesty the King personally presents robes to monks at Wat Bowon Niwet and Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram (Wat Bho).

On subsequent days, Her Majesty Queen, HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn, HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, HRH Princess Chulabhorn and other members of the Royal Family at the other 14 royal temples usually represent His Majesty.

The Royal Barge Procession is possible the most spectacular event to be seen in Thailand and only takes place on very special occasions.