
Songkhla , 950 kilometres from Bangkok, a town with a thriving fishing
community and the lovely Samila beach and the Great Songkhla Lake hosts
the 520- square- kilometre Khu Khut Waterfowl Park, the home of some 140
species. Songkhla is one of the most famous seaside resort towns of the
south having Hat Yai as the principal commercial, communications and entertainment
centre and regularly attracts visitors from nearby Malaysia and Singapore.
The province is situated on the eastern side of the Malayan Peninsula occupying
an area of 7,393 square kilometres, bordering on Nakhon Si Thammarat and
Phatthalung to the north; Yala, Pattani and States of Kedah (Sai Buri) and
Perlis to the south; the Gulf of Thailand to the east, Satun and Phatthalung
to the west. It is administratively divided into 14 Amphoes ; they are:
Amphoe Muang, Chana, Hat Yai, Na Thawi, Ranot, Rattaphum, Saba Yoi, Sadao,
Sathing Phra, Thepha, Khuan Niang, Krasae Sin, NA Mom, Singha Nakhon.
Hat Yai
Linked to Songkhla by a 30-minute road journey along Route 407, Hat
Yai is Songkhla province's principal town. Hat Yai is southern
Thailand's major commercial, communications, entertainment and shopping
centre, and offers excellent transportation and accommodation.
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HAT YAI & SONGKLA - TWIN CITIES TWO SEAS
Although
the two towns are often paired they are of distinctly different character.
Hat Yai has a more Malaya feel to it than Thai does. It is very much a
cross border town where Malays come to visit their cross border wives.
It is a transit point for people going somewhere else. Until I visited
the town all I knew of place was how to tell if the Bangkok- Butterworth
train was on schedule. If the train was running late I could buy a copy
of that days Bangkok Post, if it were on schedule I couldn't. Hat Yai
really has very little to offer a western tourist.
However just 32kms the town of
Songkla on the Gulf of Siam does with miles of clean white
sandy beaches and clear blue water to swim in, although few have visited
it. " And let's hope it stays that way" said one offshore oilrig worker
who when on land lives in Songkla.
One of the first things to surprise me
is that a fishing town in the south of the country should have three embassies-Indonesia,
China and Malaysia. The answer was the centre of the Asian growth triangle.
The Malaysia Embassy is convenient for foreigner to their visa run. The
building that houses the Embassy of China today was once the American
Consulate.
Songkla
947 km by rail or 1,200 kms by road south of Bangkok is a very clean safe
town ideal for families. There are no go-go bars and it generally has
a better climate than Phuket or Samui. Thais have a certain respect for
the town, as it was the birthplace of one of Thailand's greatest statesmen
General Prem also the father of HM the King. Songkla is where Thailand's
Universities and Medical system was founded. The majority of tourists
that do come to Songkla arrive on cruiseships sailing between Bangkok
and Singapore.
Songkla was a City-State until 1628 when
Suliman the Magnificent and his son Mustapha were attacked and conquered
by Narai the Great. During World War II it was the point of the Japanese
sealanding into Thailand. Not surprisingly it was also to be home to the
British High Command at the same time. The colonial style building at
the foot of the Fitness Park the British Officers Club complete with Tennis
Court and a golf course across the road.
The town boasts that it was the home to
Sukiyaki a dish created in a restaurant in Tanon Raman to cater for the
visiting Japanese troops. The restaurant didn't survive but the legend
did.
The 1997 Baht crash didn't affect Songkla
as it is very much a town of old money. Today it is the largest fishing
port in Thailand. The fishermen are all Chinese Muslim. When leaving harbour
it is their custom to let off firecrackers as they pass Tiger Cave to
wake the spirits so that they will look after them while ensure that they
return with a bountiful catch.
The
old Muslim Village of Songkla stood on the site of the now Samila Beach
Hotel. According to rumour, one day while walking on the beach. Former
Thai Prime Minister General Thanon stood in some human excreta and yelled
"Get these people out of here". And immediately they were relocated to
there present location at Khao Seng headland. This is the best and cheapest
place in town to buy fresh fish.
With it's wide variety of trees and flowers
as well as many herbal plants grown for educational purposes The General
Prem Botanical garden is a pleasant relaxing spot, close to Tinasulanond
Bridge. The bridge 2.6 km long crossing Songkla Lake and straddling Koh
Yoh Island is the longest bridge in Thailand. Songkla Lake is Thailand's
largest body of inland water, 80km long and 20km wide. Legend has it that
a highly venerated monk was being held captive by a band of pirates in
the lake. Noticing that his captors were extremely thirsty and had no
fresh water he turned the lake's salt water into fresh water. And out
of gratitude they released him.
The must-sees in Songkla are Koh Yoh, The
Dutch GraveYard (it's unmarked but is the land infront of Total building),
the Muslim graveyard with the mausoleum of Boyyand and the old town of
Songkla.
Baan
Sattha (House of Loving Respect) was built in honour of His
Excellency General Prem Tinsulanon. Privy Councillor, Elder Statesman
and 16th Prime Minister of Thailand. The house is 6 buildings in Thai
style architecture joined by balconies with 5 bedrooms, 2 general-purpose
rooms, a prayer room, kitchen, dinning room, a storage room, 3 washrooms
and a garage. It is almost impossible to put a value on the house as the
material used in the construction were donated but estimates of the cost
was about Baht 50 million. The house was presented to General Prem on
26th August 1991 as gesture of the people of Songkla's appreciation for
his work .He lived in the house for a period of five years. On 7th April
1996 he returned the house to the province of Songkla because although
he enjoyed every night he slept in the house he felt that it should really
be the property of the people of the province. It was developed as an
historical tourist attraction for Songkla.
Despite all that Songkla has to offer the
real reason to go there should be the miles of unspoilt beaches and the
clean water to swim in. The town's prominent symbol is the Golden Mermaid
infront of Samila Beach Hotel, but no one seems to know where she came
from and why she is there. Just another unsolved mystery.
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BY RAIL:
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Songkhla is an
eastern coastal province in Southern Thailand covering some 7,150 square
kilometres.
The provincial capital, also called Songkhla, is 950 kilometres south
of Bangkok. Songkhla was formerly known as Singha-la (Lion) by Indian,
Persian and Arabian merchants since the small offshore Cat and Rat islands
had a somewhat leonine appearance from the sea.
Once a medieval pirate stronghold, Songkhla is a historic, albeit sleepy
Gulf town with a thriving fishing community and the fine Samila Beach
facing Cat and Rat islands.
City Attractions
SAMILA BEACH, some 3 kilometres from the Municipal Market on Ratchadamnoen
Road, is characterized by soft white sand and beachside pine trees. The
most prominent landmark is a Golden Mermaid statue on the headland
fronting the beachside Samila Hotel.
KHAO NOI, the low
hill behind the hotel, commands a panoramic view of Songkhla town and
the Samila Beach. The hill's SUAN SERI contains a small topical garden.
The Samila Beach WATER
SPORTS CENTRE provides water sports equipment, including rowing boats,
paddle boats and speedboats. Shower facilities are also available.
SONGKHLA GOLF COURSE
(Thong Yai Golf Course) is beside the Samila Hotel. The 9-hole beachside
course is open to the public daily. The Green Fee is 100 baht. The Caddy
Fee is 50 Baht. The Golf Club Rental Fee is 200 baht. Golfers can make
reservations by telephoning the Samila Hotel at (074) 311310.
SON ONN BEACH is
directly north of Samila Beach. Hundreds of beachside pine trees provide
cool shade and several restaurants offer simple but deliciously fresh
seafood and deckchairs for beachside relaxation. The area is particularly
attractive and popular in late afternoon and evening.
CAT & RAT ISLANDS
are prominent landmarks facing Son Onn and Samila beaches. Coastal island
waters are favored by anglers.
KHAO SENG headland
is some 3 kilometres south of the Samila Beach headland and shelters a
Muslim fishing village where distinctive Koralae boats are decorated with
hand-painted floral motifs.
THE NATIONAL INSTITUTE
OF COASTAL AQUACULTURE, 1 kilometre south of Khao Seng, was established
in 1981 as a development and information centre for coastal fishery resources
development. Attractions include laboratories, a fish museum and hatcheries
for important marine life, including prawns, turtles, giant sea perch
and groupers. Visitors may telephone (074) 311895 during office hours
to gain entry.
TUNG KHUAN MOUNTAIN
is west of Khao Noi. Steps lead to the summit. Ancient pagodas and royal
pavilions are major attractions.
PAK NAM LAEM SAI FORT,
along Laem Sai Road from Khao Tung Khuan, dates from the early 1800s,
when 'modern' Songkhla was constructed.
SONGKHLA NATIONAL MUSEUM
on Rongmuang Road dates from the 1870s. The lovely complex was built in
southern Thai Chinese architectural style as the residence of a local
luminary. The museum houses Thai objects d'art from prehistoric to modern
times, and several archaeological artifacts discovered locally. The museum
is open daily, except Monday and Tuesday, between 9.00 and 12.00 AM, and
1.00 to 4.00 PM.
ANCIENT CITY WALLS
beside the museum mark the limits of the ancient town.
CENTRAL MARKET
on Nakhon Nai Road opposite the Post Office is the major venue for purchasing
fresh poultry, meats, fish, vegetables, spices and fruit. The market operates
every day from early morning to late afternoon.
SONGKHLA FISHERY STATION
on the shore of the Great Lake is the major unloading place for trawlers.
Early morning and late afternoon activity reveals the amazing variety
and volume of fish caught. Much is exported as fresh or processed produce.
SONGKHLA'S SUNDAY MARKET
(Sunday mornings only) offers a bewildering range of household, agricultural,
garden and fashionable products traded by local merchants.
NAKHON NAI ROAD
is the oldest road in Songkhla. Ancient dwellings along the thoroughfare
display distinctive Chinese architectural influence.
SONGKHLA CITY PILLAR
dates from the early 1800s and is highly revered by local people.
WAT MATCHIMAWAT
(Wat Klang) on Saiburi Road is Songkhla's largest monastery. The complex
is some 400 years old and houses a museum containing several ruins and
artifacts discovered throughout southern Thailand.