The Road to Phnom Penh

No matter how good a deal you get on the airline ticket, departure taxes will always increase the price of travelling to just a little more than had been budgeted for. But when travelling by road there are not these high taxes to be paid.

The journey from Bangkok is a five legged one, Bus from Ekamai Bus Station to Trat; Songlaw to Ban Hat Lek; a combination of a long tail to Koh Kong; a speedboat to Sinaoukville and; finally an air-conditioned coach to Phnom Penh. The cost can be as low as B882, if flying the departure tax alone is B500. It makes the option of travelling overland from Bangkok to Phnom Penh an affordable alternative.

When travelling by air to Cambodia there are Visa on Arrival facilities at both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, such conveniences do not exist at the land boarders with Thailand and Cambodia. Foreigners wishing to cross into Cambodia overland MUST obtain their Cambodian Tourist Visa at the Royal Cambodian Embassy in Soi Sarasin. Turn up at the border without one and you will not be allowed to enter Cambodia.

The journey starts with the overnight bus from Bangkok's Ekamai Bus Station leaving at 10.30pm. The fare is B132 and the travelling times is a minimum of four hours but can vary according to the volume of traffic and weather conditions; a heavy storm can slow down the journey. The air-conditioned bus can be like a fridge on wheels so it's a good idea to wear something warm. From time to time there are military check points on the outskirts of Trat so keep your passport handy just incase.

The bus normally pulls into Trat at the ungodly hour of 4.30am. Although most of the town is still asleep, the market behind the bus station is just opening a good place to go for a early breakfast before the 70 km journey to the boarder at Ban Hat Lek. There are two options to reach the boarder an open shared taxi for B55 or a Mini Bus for B100. The road from Trat to the boarder although it's only single traffic in each direction, is a good one and the journey time is just over an hour. The boarder doesn't open until 7am so there is little point in leaving Trat before 6am. Again remember to keep your passport handy, as there are usually at least two military checkpoints on the road.

On arrival at Baan Hat Lek you will pass through the market with many favourably price goods that originated in Cambodia. Although you cannot pay for a Cambodian Visa at the boarder, should you have overstayed your Thai visa, the fines of B200 a day are still payable. Having walked through the Thai boarder checkpoint, take a local Cambodian taxi to the point opposite Koh Kong where small boats are waiting to shuttle you across the river. There are boats from Ban Had Lek to Koh Kong but we would not recommend them as they are illegal and their safety is in question.

Modern secure Malay speedboats operate the journey between Koh Kong and Sinoukvile. On the rare occasions weather is really bad the Malay captain won't leave port. It's encouraging to know that he won't risk his own neck and his boat for a few dollars. The journey time to Sihanoukville is three and half-hours and you'll be able to see small deserted islands. It is pleasant to relax on deck but be careful of the sun. The cabin is comfortable but you may need a jacket as the air-conditioning is very efficient and ear plugs if you a not a fan of loud Khmer music. Snacks and drinks are available and there is a toilet, but not the clean.

The boat makes a short stop at Koh Sdach were the Cambodian police will check your passport, before heading across the open water to Sinoukville (some Khmer call it Kompong Som). The pier is 500m from where the bus to Phnom Penh stops and there is always a fleet of motorcycle-taxis and conventional taxis waiting to take you the short distance.

Royal Air Cambodge do operate daily flights between Phnom Penh and Sinoukville.

The bus to Phnom Penh is surprisingly modern and air-conditioned. The one way fare is 12,000 Riels (US$3.1) and the journey time is three hours. Incredible value at just over one dollar an hour. The journey to Phnom Penh gives a good insight into rural Khmer lifestyle . Finally sixteen hours after leaving Bangkok, the bus arrives opposite Phnom Penh Central market, instantly surrounded by a flock of eager and willing porters. Welcome to Phnom Penh.