With road traffic being so congested and slow I decided to discover how easy it would be to travel around Bangkok by waterways. Saen Saeb Canal, the longest in Thailand, connects the Chao Phraya River to Bang Prakong River. King Rama V built it originally for military purposes before being used for by the locals. Ferryboat services runs from Pratunam Market to Wat Klang beyond the Bangkapi intersection on Ramkhamhaeng Road. The canal run parallel to Phetburi and New Phetburi Road and then follows Rankamhaeng. It’s convienient for shoppers making a stop at The Mall. The cost is just 15 baht and is a faster way to travel than by road. It is a little damp, noisy and smelly. Take care when climbing on, it’s a bit of a scramble and a few tourists and Thais alike have ended up in the water.

Traveling west towards Wat Shaket, while passing Sri Pratatum Palace the ferry is required to slow down to reduce the disturbance to the royal residence. Having passed under the bridge crossing Phayathai Road it passes Jim Thompson’s house barely visible due to the dense tropical garden. The klong played a part in the building of the house. Many of the original buildings brought to Bangkok from Ayuthaya arrived by barge traveling down the Chao Phraya River, then along Klong Phadung connecting to Saen Saeb. Jim Thompson used a dug out canoe to cross the klong from his house to visit his silk weavers in the Muslim village of Bang Krua.

To get under the bridge on Rama VI road the crew have to lower the hinged canopy, as they do passengers subconsciously crouch forward. Unlike the banks of the Chao Phrya River, it is possible to walk along the banks of Saen Saeb Canal in many places. Canal side houses are relatively simple and decorated with elaborate floral displays in pots. For canal folk every day seems to be washing day. Even on the klong you can get stuck at a red light, to give way to other ferries as only one can pass under some of the bridges at a time.

Relaxing at the ferry station near to Wat Sahket one can see an example of Italian Rocco sculpture relief on the side of the bridge columns depicting Thai mothers with their children. Just one of the many examples of Italian architecture that can be found around Bangkok. Saen Saeb canal has the local nickname of “Canal of Ten Thousand Stings” after the hoard of mosquitoes that breed along the murky waterway. The one-way fare from Pratuman to Wat Shaket is 7 baht and is a useful and quick way to reach Banglamphoo on public holidays.

The part of Bangkok known as “Koh Rattanakosin is not a natural island but was created by the two connecting canals to the east Klong Banglamphu and Klong Ong Ang. Built by King Rama V two kilometers from the Grand Place and just over seven kilometers long. Strong and solid walls were built along the inner side of the canal 3.6 meters high and 2.7 meters thick broken by 16 gates and 16 forts. Today just the Forts Of Mahakan and Phrasumen still are standing. Klong Ong Ang runs from a point on the Chao Phraya River close to the Memorial Bridge running near to Wat Saket. There it becomes Klong Banglamphu rejoining the river north of Phra Pinklao Bridge. Both are still navigable but no commercial ferries operate on either. To explore them you will need to hire a long tail boat, but as road bridges have been built over some of the klongs it’s to possible to explore all of them.

Hiring a water taxi and exploring the klongs on the Thonburi side of the river with a group of friends is a perfect way to spend an afternoon. Boats are available from Saphan Taksin, The Oriental or River City piers and cost about Baht 350 an hour, depending on your negotiating skills. Bring a picnic hamper and a cool box full of liquid refreshment. Most river craft can comfortable carry eight to ten passengers. Climb aboard your chosen craft and head up river then turning left onto Klong Bangkok Yai at Fort Thonburi, the Royal Thai Navy Headquarters. On the Thonburi side a good deal of the old atmosphere of The Venice of the East remains. In fact many residents are still dependant on the waterways for their daily transport. Vendors’ boats offer everything from household goods to a bowl of noddle soup. Even the mail is delivered by boat.

Within a very short while of leaving the Chao Phraya River we find ourselves in open countryside. Floating past fruit orchards, plantations of beetle nut palms, orchid plantations and market gardens were most of Bangkok’s spices and vegetables are grown. If you run out of liquid refreshments just pull up at a klong side store and re-fill the icebox. If your captain needs more fuel for the boat just pull into a floating petrol station.

The peace and calm is a much welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Floating down klong with electricity and telephone cables running down them. The first impression is of a flooded road, there are even phone boxes on the banks beside the canal.

For many residents this is their only source of water, using it for washing, cooking and bathing. Whenever passing groups of children they wave energetically, smile and use their one word of English “Hello”. Passing under bridges young boys some in their underwear others naked innocently show off the skills of diving in the water beside the boat. This is the perfect opportunity to get an insight into life on the klong.

When you fancy a late lunch your captain will find you a canal side restaurant serving simple but good Thai food. Within minutes of our arrival plates of food arrive always more than we can eat. It’s also a useful convenience stop. Then its time to climb back onto the boat for a leisurely amble back home. Gliding on still water as the sun sinks below the horizon. As we pull back in the Chao Phraya neon signs can be seen reflecting in the water. Tired and relaxed we climb out of the boat to wend our way home.

The Chao Phraya Express boats are another good water borne transport to get around Bangkok. Recently I had been to the Grand Palace for a meeting and was finding it hard to get a taxi back to Silom. A kind old man told me to take the river boat to Saphan Taksin pier and from there I could take the sky train. There is never the same congestion on the Chao Phraya as there is on Sukhumvit Road.

The klongs and the river are not only a quick but low cost way to get around Bangkok. Next time you are about to jump in a taxi, ask yourself if could you get there quicker by boat. In a lot of cases the answer is yes.