Restaurant of the Month - New York

I first visited New York, two years ago when it had just opened. Walking back into the restaurant the feel is very much the same big and black. Then I notice the differences, a new Martini bar, more seating but whats most impressive is their walk in wine cellar.

And it’s their wine cellar that makes them stick out from the rest and will have guests returning time and time again. With wine prices much higher due to taxation in Thailand, most restaurant get their wine from their suppliers on a consignment basis. While this does help with cash flow, it restricts the selection available. Food & Beverage Director Mark Crawley has taken the somewhat bold step of investing 14 million baht in the inventory of the wine cellar for New York. Working in conjunction with Artur Kluczewski, Restaurant Manager, they have carefully selected a wide selection of wines covering a broad range of price points and tastes. They are in a position to offer the quality wines and at an affordable price. The selection of wines will have some conniseurs coming back time and time again, just to taste rare wine previously not available at these prices.

The silver long horn cattle head is symbol of the restaurant and had been used in the restaurants door handles, the reserved signs, as handles for the wooden platters and as cufflinks for the waitresses black shirts. Their uniform has a Texan feel, as does the longhorn symbol. That could be a tribute to the state where the beef is raised. The restaurant has a very masculine feel and soften it slightly all the serving staff with the exception of Restaurant Manager Artur Kluczewski are all female. But he was looking staff for the restaurant he was looking for more than just a pretty face. “As a commitment to serve,” he said, “the staff is required to have good hospitality skills that include, eye contact, a smiling face, self motivation and hard work.”

There are still 19 cocktails on the menu including 12 Martini’s and three Manhattans. This time I tried the Leap Year Martini, a blend of Citrus Vodka, Sweet Martini, Grand Marnier and Lemon Juice

The Appetizers are really tempting. I was in a dilemma of should I go for Oysters Rockefeller or the Pan Fried Goose Liver 950 baht. After much deliberating I opted for the Foie Gras. It was cooked to perfection, the outside a light crispiness yet the inside still moist and warm. Arthur had matched this for me with a Chateau Rully de Rully 1996 by Antoine Roodet at 4,300 baht.

For my salad I opted for the classic Caesar B 240 individually prepared and tossed in an oversized bowl tableside. “As a Caesar dressing uses raw egg,” explained Artur “it has to be prepared fresh. Once the dressing has been mixed a taster on a small piece of lettuce is given to the customer to see if it meets their preference or needs slight adjustment. We use the large salad bowl so that we can roll the dressing into the leaves without crushing them. The test of the salad being correctly tossed is that the bowl should be dry when completed.”

Another difference I noticed since when they first opened is that now they only serve Certified Angus Beef. Their customer demand is for the best meat available they aren’t interested in a cheaper alternative.

So what is all the bull about US Certified Grain Feed Angus beef? “All Certified Angus beef products must meet eight stringent standards to ensure superior taste.” Explains Mark, “In fact, only seven out of every 100 cattle will meet these rigid standards and earn the coveted Certified Angus beef certification, making it the best we can buy.”

Certified Angus Beef program will only export to restaurants that meet their specification the standard of restaurant in terms of service; agree that it will be the only American beef served in their restaurant; to purchase only from licensed CAB program packers and to submit a current menu to CAB program executive office and a new menu whenever changes are made.

Cuts range from an 8oz Fillet Mingnon up to a 20oz Porterhouse. The last time I had a large steak and it was simply too much meat for me. I opted for the Fillet Mignon 10oz at Baht 1,600, cooked rare as I had requested. This was accompanied by Broccoli with Monterey Jack Cheese Sauce and New York Hashed Brown Garlic Potatoes with Parmesan Cheese and Green Onion.

Once asking Arthur’s good taste had matched my steak with a Renwood Zinfandel 2000 ‘Grand Pere’. When he matches the wine for me he doesn’t just tell me that I will like the wine he has chosen. Rather he tells a poetic tale of why the characteristics of the wine not only match the food but match my taste and mood at that moment in time. Tastes are variable and it’s the good restaurant manger who listen to what the customers says and what they don’t say.

To finish I fancied something light and sweet and opted the Key Lime Cr?me Brulee, perfectly matched with a glass of Chateau Suduirat 1985.

Ever since New York opened it has been winning awards and deservedly two. Its clear and desisive about its style and quality and there is no compromise on price. The best costs, it has to but at New York it comes at a reasonable price.

New York, J W Marriott Hotel, 4 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 2, Bangkok 10110, Tel (66-2) 656-9789 6-11pm