Restaurant of the Month - Grappino

Why is that despite many emerging new food trends that Italian remains the most popular in Asia. It could well be the similarity the cuisines, both use very fresh ingredients, cooked quickly before serving, both use noodles and rice and have a commonality of fish, seafood, chicken and vegetable. I was delighted to accept the invitation to see how the refurbishments of Grappino had been handled and to taste the food of Bangkok's first female Italian Chef.

Entering the recently re-furbished Grappino at Amari Watergate Hotel once can instantly sense the elements of this new generation, minimalist black energized by orange and purple. It has two moods reflecting the time of day, for lunch it’s bright flooded with natural daylight, for dinner it takes on a darker more intimate character.

The staff is dressed in black T-shirts and jeans with the elegant chic simplicity of the streets of Milan. To enhance the atmosphere Italian jazz is playing gently in the background. The stage is set to appreciate the creative cuisine of Frola Matilde, possibly Bangkok’s first Italian female chef.

Matilde was born in Nubile, and studied at the Instituto Prof. Di Stato Per I Servizi Alberghiere E Della Ristiorazione from where she graduated in 1995. From there she worked at Felidia in New York and then Liddia’s Italian Restaurant in Kansas City before returning to her native Italy at La Crota Italian Restaurant in Florence.

Through a connection veteran Turinese restaurateur Giamaria Zanotti, owner of the fashionable Zanotti in Soi Saladaeng and former Chef himself of Grappino, Matilde was invited to Bangkok.

Despite her tender of age of 27, with great talent, creativity and energy, she and her team have managed to create a casually elegant restaurant with a touch of fun.

Does she have her own signature dish yet? “No, I rather like to think what is the best I can do for the customer,” explains Matilde “I they like fish, what is the most interesting way that I can cook it for them. I do the same if they like seafood, beef or vegetable. My passion is to cook; it’s my life. I just want to create the best dishes I can for my customer. I like to use the freshest ingredients and cook them, the last minute before serving them.”

So how does she feel being the only female in the macho male world of Italian Chefs in Bangkok? Initially her reply is just a feminine smile and then she adds “It’s no problem for me. I haven’t had time to meet any of them yet, but I look forward to doing so in the near future.

The menu is as fresh and charming as Matilde herself. The Antipasti are served on a very innovative black square glass plate. If dinning in as a couple or a group the staff encourage customers to enjoy their meal Thai style, by having a selection of dishes that can be shared. I particularly enjoyed Peperoni arrostiti con mozzarella di bufalo al balsamico (Roasted, marinated peppers with buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes, stacked and dressed with balsamic vinaigrette) B 160. And Spinaci –novelli con radicchio, semi di grasole, funghi, pancetta e parmegiano (Young spinach leaves with sunflower seeds, sautéed porcini mushrooms, panchetta, Parmesan cheese and radicco) B250. The Risotto con capesante al nero di seppia (Black risotto with sea scallops) is perfecto, available as a starter at B15O or B230. Try the Gnocchi di spinaci e ricotta (Spinach and ricotta gnocchi) B130 a starter or B170 a main course, it’s just right - al dente. For a main course I had Trota alle mandorie allo champagne con risotto allo zafferano (Pan fried trout fillets with a light almond, champagne, cream sauce, served with a saffron risotto), delicious and a very generous portion B390, my companion opted for Code di aragosta e gamberoni con capesante grigliate in salsa di vongole (Grilled rock lobster tail and tiger prawn brochette, served on a piquant scallop and clam sauce) B 480.

For dessert I just couldn’t resist Torta calda al cioccolato com mirtilli de foresta (Warm chocolate cake with a compote of forest berries) B150.

Grappino, Amari Watergate Hotel,
847 Petchburi Rd, Pratunam, Bangkok 10400,
Tel (66-2) 653-9000, fax (66-2) 653-9045