Les Nymphaeas

A too often overlooked French restaurant, Les Nymphaes at The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi draws its name from the water lilies of the great impressionist painter Claude Monet. Reproductions of his classic works at the Garden of Giverney adorn the walls and play an integeral part in setting the mood for this modern French restaurant. The themes of lotus is continued into the handles of the cutlery; the glasswear has the classic blue stems of Cesar Ritz and; the rich décor is truly delightful.

Mark Bowen the Head Chef of Les Nymphaeas has recently redesigned the restaurant’s menu. It now reflects his ecletric approach to cuisine, using textures from all over the world pre-pared using the time-honoured French traditions of attention to quality, detail and artful presentation.

There can be no finer way to start a gourmet dinner than with the Composition of Foie Gras 960 baht. Two slices lightly pan fried goose liver are presented on a bed of crisp salad leaves. While Strasboug is often regarded as the home of Foie Gras its more than likely that the birds originated from Hungary. The region between Kiskunhalas and Oroshazza is regarded as the idea condition for raising geese. The birds preferring sandy soil to mud and also a warm sunny climate. The goose liver is perfectly cooked having been seen sealed to have a firm outer casing, yet as one’s knife cuts into the meat, inside we find the meat soft and light. Great care needs to be taken in the preparation of foie gras. Within a matter of minutes without that high level of care a European delicacy can be changed from a gastronomic delight to a piece of over cooked boot leather. Luckily while I was dining at the restaurant my taste buds were excited and pleased, only the finest fare having been served.

Moving onto the soup I opted for the pleasingly fresh Crayfish bisque with Cognac and toasted crouton 340 baht. It was evident after the soup have been prepared it had been passed through a Mandellin to ensure a reach creamy taste, without residual pieces of no longer required meat.

For my main course I choose the Loin of Lamb sautéed in butter, mushroom sauce, bouquet of vegetables and cheese risotto. The lamb was lean and cooked to a perfectly pink colour. There would have been a conflict of tastes if the cheese risotto were to be served on the same plate as the meat, luckily the rissoto was served in a separated bowl avoiding that unwanted fusion of tastes.

Being a committed chocoholic there was no way that I could pass on the dangerously delicious Hazel Nut Parfait with Cognac and Ararena cherries 410 baht with an expresso to conclude the meal.

When people think of approaching the hotel, their obvious thoughts are on driving to Sukhumvit Soi 22, if only we all had that amount of disposable time. Many overlook that the hotel can be accessed by a gentle stroll across Bengisri Park from either the Emporium Tower or UBC II Building. I accept that the idea of walking in the noon sun may well be aborent to many Thais but likewise the ideal of being held prisoner in a Merceddes Limo for over an hour is equally unacceptable to westerners, busy going now where. Its time to open the mind and look at alternative approaches to the way of moving about our fair city. Why drive when you can walk there quicker?

The lunch market in the smaller stand alone restaurants appears to have nose dived, there is no longer the budget nor the fascination for heavy lunch. In response the hotel has created a reduced lunch menu for 499 baht, served within 45 minutes to endorse the faith the hotel has in its lunch business.

For starters there is a choice of Poached Shrimp Salad with a Garlic or Lemon Dressing; Farmhouse Style Pumpkin Soup; Foie Gras Mousse with Cranberry Dressing; Caesar Salad and Smoked Salmon Strips or; perhaps Salad of Quail Legs and Baby Asparagus.

For the main course a choice of Pan Fried Red Snapper with Potatoe Puree and Chive Salad; Spaghetti with Sun Dried Tomato and mixed Seafood; Chicken Escalop with Salpicon of Peppers and Sage Gnocchi; Barbequed Pork Spare-ribs with a Curried Apple Compote; Grilled Lamb Chops with Ratatouille or; Fillet of Veal “ Zurichoise” with Buttered Noodles.

To complete a warm tart tatin with vanilla sauce; Sachher Torte with mocha sauce; sliced fresh fruit plate or; a selection of Ice Creams and Sorbets.

The wine list has a pleasing blend of Fine French and New World wines at affordable prices.

Les Nympheas is possible the best kept French dining secret in Bangkok. It’s now time to discover this under exposed treat.

Open for lunch 11.30am-2.30pm and Dinner 6-10.30pm. Les Nymphaes, 4th Floor, The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Bangkok 10110, Tel 0-2261-9000 ext 5089. Dress code – smart casual.