Post card from Indochina

Travelling from Bangkok to Phnom Penh there are two alternatives. The easy option of flying which takes 50mins and there are visa on arrival facilities at Phnom Penh airport.

Or for the more adventurous overland by bus. The journey is best started with an overnight bus ride from Bangkok to Trat on the Eastern Seaboard. From there to the Thai boarder there are two options to reach the boarder an open shared taxi for B55 or a Mini Bus for B100. The road from Trat to the boarder although it's only single traffic in each direction, is a good one and the journey time is just over an hour. The boarder is open from 7am-7pm.

There are several combined Police and Military road checks along the road that are more interested in who is coming from the boarder rather than going to it. In most cases that make a notional glance into the vehicle to check that Cambodians are not entering the country.

The Market at Ban Hat Lek on the road just before the boarder trades in fresh fruit, fish and clothes destined for Cambodia from 4am-10am. Products that have come over the boarder from Cambodia for sale are Spirits, cigarettes and wine, most bearing stamps of "Duty Free Singapore" and Cambodian Duty tickets. Singapore is the supplier of wines, spirits and cigarettes to Indochina. I recently congratulated the representative of an exclusive Californian winemaker for having the most expensive wine on sale in Cambodia, only to be told that they don't officially sell their wine in the country. An illegal trade that doesn't take great care in the handling of it merchandise. We bought a bottle of Mouton Cadet for B420 fraction of the price in Bangkok, to see if this was a good buy or not. When the bottle was opened the cork was damaged and the taste of the wine had been affected. That could just have been bad luck, but the International wine trade has reservation about buying wine in Asia because of how it is stored and handled. What may look a bargain bottle of wine may not look the same in the glass, that's the risk.

Although visas on arrival are obtainable at Potchentong International Airport in Phnom Penh and at Seam Reap the same facility doesn't apply at Ban Hat Lek. So do remember to obtain them before leaving Bangkok. They are ferry boats from the Thai side of the boarder to Koh Kong in Cambodia but someone that I spoke with at the market, who wished to remain anonymous said "it's unsafe for foreigners once out to sea some boat operators demand money leaving little option to refuse. If you were foolish enough to do so, they would throw you over board. No one would know, there are no records of whose on each boat." A safer option would be to take a taxi on the Cambodian side for B50 taking you across no-mans-land from the boarder to the river crossing to Koh Kong. From where an air-conditioned speedboat takes you to Sihanoukville B500.

Travelling off the beaten track is fun and exciting, but we feel a sense of responsibility in advising our readers of the possible risks.

The pier is 500m from where the bus to Phnom Penh stops and there is always a fleet of motorcycle-taxis and conventional taxis waiting to take you the short distance.

Royal Air Cambodge does operate daily flights between Phnom Penh and Sinoukville.

The bus to Phnom Penh is surprisingly modern and air-conditioned. The one-way fare is 12,000 Riels (US$3.1) and the journey time is three hours. Incredible value at just over one dollar an hour. The journey to Phnom Penh gives a good insight into rural Khmer lifestyle. Finally sixteen hours after leaving Bangkok, the bus arrives opposite Phnom Penh Central market, instantly surrounded by a flock of eager and willing porters. Welcome to Phnom Penh.

Despite the ravages of war Phonm Penh has retained much of its French Colonial charm though in places it is a little run down. Back in 1948 it was described as “neatly planned, with broad avenues of the flames-of-the-forest trees, elegant official residences standing in gardens of scented by tropical blooms, narrower street boarded by crowded rows of native dwellings where banana trees sprouted untidily in backyards, and a commercial center where imposing European shops rose from the pavement cluttered with Oriental stalls – all gathered around the little hill with its Buddhist temple among graceful coconut palms.”

The French built the Royal Palace with gift to the Cambodian King with a slightly dubious tale. A two storey French villa cupola-topped and fussy in design and stands next to the throne hall. A present from Emperor Napoleon III that started life on the banks of the Suez Canal as accommodation from Empress Eugenie during the canals opening. When the French no longer needed it was shipped to Phnom Penh accompanied by a fine equestrian statue of King Norodom. Well in fact its King Norodom’s head on the body of Napoleon III. Never mind it’s the thought that counts.

The National Museum can however be singled out as an attraction of major interest. A pretty red sandstone building modeled along the lines of classic Khmer architecture. It also houses on of the world’s finest collections of Khmer art, including exquisite bronzes and some superb pre-Angkor stone sculptures.

One can’t ignore the traumatic effect that the Khmer Rouge had on Cambodia and although distressing a visit to Tual Sleng Museum of Genocide Crimes is a must. Originally it was a high school complete with playing field. During 1975-78 the Khmer Rouge used it as a detention center converting classrooms into torture chambers and construction of makeshift concrete slab walls in the larger halls to serve as partitions between prisoners, who were then crammed into tiny cubicles. The grounds were also used to bury those who didn’t survive the ordeal.

Displayed today are a great number of disturbing objects and images. Ranging from implements of torture to the iron frame of a bed where prisoners lay; photographs of victims taken after a session to mug shots of ever prisoner brought in. The museum stands as a testament to the men, women and children of Cambodia who suffered through the Khmer Rouge reign of terror.

Where to Eat in Phnom Penh

This city has an amazing selection of different places to eat with a wide variety of styles. Here are a few that I particularly enjoy.

If I had just one place to eat in Phnom Penh it would have to be The Foreign Correspondents Club of Cambodia, 363 Quay Sisiwath, Tel 360714. The bar and restaurant is set on the second floor with an open balcony overlooking the river. A terraced restaurant at the back overlooks the National Museum. A delightful “clubby” atmosphere pervades, making it ideal for any time of the day. The menu of snacks and starters range from Homus with toasted Pitta Bread of US$ 3, Taziki at US$2.50 to Nachos at US$5.50. Sandwiches range from Sun-Dried Tomatoes with Mozzarella at US$ 4.50 to Roast Beef at US$5.50. The selection of salads range from US$3.50 to US$ 5.50. Main courses range from Fish and Chips at US4.50 to a Cambodian Chicken Curry at US$6, the most expensive item on the menu being a T-Bone Steak at US$15. The selection of afternoon teas range from cream tea at US$3.75 to a luxury tea for US$4.50. After sunset cocktails range from US$3-4.50

One of Phnom Penh’s oldest Continental restaurants is La Pailotte, 234 Street 130, 53 Tel 722151, located opposite the main entrance to Central Market with a Swiss owner-chef. Traditional food at an affordable price. A pre-meal Kir Royale is just US$2.50. The starters range from Ratatouille on toast at US3 to Smoked Salmon at US$10.80. A dozen snails cost only US7.80. The average price of a salad is US$3.50. There is an extensive selection of fish, poultry, meat and pasta. Emince du Veau with Rosti, the chef's specialty from Zurich is US$8. A large carafe of house red wine costs US$12. There is a wide selection of desserts such as Crème Brulee for US$2. And to finish a Cappuccino at US$2.50.

A popular bar and restaurant with a pavement cafe is La Taverne 371/373 Quay Sisowath. In the afternoon they serve freshly cooked crepes ranging from au sucre at US$2 to Grand Marnier at US$3.50. The restaurant offers Lyonnaise Sausage at US5, Boeuf Bourguignon at US$6 and a dozen oysters for just US$8. On Tuesday evening the specialty is Cous Cous and on Thursday it’s Paella. A selection of salads, sandwiches and desserts are also available.

The Palms, No 36 Street 214, Tel 720273 is a blend of an English Pub, café and a wine bar. Salads are from are from US$3 and a Plowman’s US$4.50. To accompany afternoon tea there is a choice of Welsh Rarebit at US$3.50, Eggs Benedict US$4 and Smoked Salmon with scrambled eggs for US$5. Appetizers range from an Onion Tarte with Tomato and Basil Chutney at US$4 to Atlantic Smoked Salmon with Dill Mustard at US$7.50. The Main courses range from Red Snapper marinated in Lemon Butter at US$8 to a Rack of Lamb at US12 including a complimentary glass of Red Wine.