Danang – The Gateway to Central Vietnam

Danang is the third largest city in Vietnam set in the heart of what was once the ancient Kingdom of Champa (home of the Cham civilization). This busy seaport of nearly one million people is an important trading and transport link between the capitol of Hanoi in the north and the thriving commercial center of Ho Chi Minh City in the south.

Danang’s colourful history is reflected in its colonial architecture, remnants from the days when the French and the Spanish occupied this area during the 17th and 18th centuries. Today a cyclo tour of the city along tree lined avenues will cost you just US$1.

I stayed at the delightful Furama Resort Danang and had a suite facing out onto China beach that had once been a popular R & R spot for American G.I’s during the Vietnam (or American if you are Vietnamese) war. I woke early around 5.30am and thought I would go for a walk on what I thought would be a deserted beach. But much to my surprise it was packed with many locals jogging orplaying either badminton or volley ball in the cool morning. The air got warm very quickly and by 6.45am it was starting to feel hot. It was nice to be able to walk on the beach without being pestered by postcard or chewing gum sellers. The people are very friendly and just want to say hello. I had a written exchange with a deaf man on a bicycle who was curious about my visit to Danang. There is something refreshing in being able to be a tourist without being hasseled.

Having walked around for an hour I decided to try a local coffee made using an aliminium drip. It did seem to take for ever for the black liquid to make it’s was into the glass but the rest was good and just 5,000 Dong.

Five miles south of Danang is a cluster of five scenic hills known as Marble Mountain or “Mountain of the Five Elements”. Mysteroius caves within the mountains conceal elaborate altars dedicated to Buddha, Bodhisattvas and the different genies of local folklore. Dating back centuries, they serve as religious sanctuaries. The mountains also yield a valuable source of red, white and blue-green marble.

My Son Valley was the spiritual center of the ancient Cham civilization and is similar to other important spiritual centers such as Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Borobudur in Indonesia and Pegan in Myanmar. It was chosen as a religious sanctuary in the 4th century and its varied history is reflected in the temples and ruins that reamain. It is also home of the Museum of Cham Sculpture, which record the development of the culture and history of the Cham people through their elaborate sculptures and carvings. My Son Valley is forty five miles south west of Danang.