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The
road from Pai begins to climb after KM.110. Lisu women and men
can be seen working the slopes by the road, which was only sealed
in the late 1980's. Views near the pass are excellent, and you
can take a short walk up the trail leading from the car park.
 Passing
Nam Rin Lisu village at KM.32, the road follows narrow valleys
to the small district town of Soppong. The turn off to Tham
Lot cave is just past the KM.141 stone. In Soppong the best
accommodation is at The Jungle Guest House, which has a fine
restaurant
After
Soppong some breathtaking scenery can be enjoyed by taking the
side trip at KM.152 to the Shan town of Mae Lan Na. H1095 reaches
one of the best viewpoints on the whole route, before dropping
into the River Khong Valley and continuing on a twisting route
over low passes and narrow valleys.
An
opportunity to take a short break occurs at a forest park where
local families bring their children to feed the blue carp at
'fish cave'. An alternative route at KM.192 gives access to
two side-trips that include a self-drive route to one of the
Padaung villages.
Mae
Hong Son
 Known
as the city of three mists, a settlement started here around
1831 as an elephant corral, and grew as Shan farmers and Yunnanese
traders settled there. It became a city in 1871 and was hastily
made into a Siamese province in 1893 due to threats from the
British, who had annexed the nearby Shan State of Burma. The
first road to connect to it was engineered by the Japanese in
the push into Burma during the Second World War, and the southern
route via Mae Sariang was sealed in the early 70's.
The
town has only recently developed as a thriving tourist centre,
modernising in the process. The area around Chong Kham (pronounced
something like 'Jong Kum') lake, however, retains its original
charm. The town is famous for the Poi San Long festival held
in March or May, when a very colourful parade of 'crystal sons'
goes round the Chong Kham lake and back to Wat Hua Wiang. The
'Hae Chong Phara' festival in the 11th lunar month and Loi Krathong
(November) are also very colourful.
Around
Mae Hong Son
The
mountains are the reserve of the Karen, the main hill tribe
to be found in this area. To see the Padaung (Long Neck Karen)
you can take ST7, or go on a long tail boat ride to the Burmese
border (the landing is reached by turning right [west] after
passing KM.265 and going almost 3 kms. to the village of Huai
Dua. 400 Baht for one boat and 250 Baht per visitor to the Padaung.
3 hrs.).
DAY
2: SIDE TRIPS
ST4
Tham Lot
(KM.141.
right turn [north]. Concrete 7 kms. + Dirt 2 kms . 3 hours or
longer if planning a stop at Cave Lodge.) Turn right off the
concrete road at the village of Ban Tham Lot (7 kms.) onto the
dirt road which continues 1 km. to Tham Lot National Park, where
villagers with lanterns (100 baht) and rafts (100 baht) to the
'coffin' in cavern 3 await visitors. Cave Lodge has basic huts
and a large wooden hall serving as a restaurant. The Lodge can
provide guides and lots of information about caving, walks and
jeep treks.
ST5
Mae La NA & Chabo
(KM.152.
Right turn [north] 2 kms dirt road, 3 kms asphalt. 90 min.)
The
road passes the Black Lahu village of Chabo (3.5 kms) before
dropping down to the Shan village of Mae La NA Just after 4
kms. a dirt road left goes 21 kms to the Karen village of Pang
Kham near the border with Myanmar. Do not enter in the rainy
season and note any turnings you make. This area is one of the
most spectacular in Northern Thailand, but you must take a guide
for dirt road exploration.
ST6.
Pha Sua Falls and Mae Aw
(KM.142.
Right [north turn]. Asphalt 24 kms., dirt road 6 kms. 3 hrs)
Turn
right after 2.2 kms and go straight. You should reach a T junction
with a (good) local restaurant with a 'Food & Drink' sign in
English. Turn right for the PHA Sua Falls and left for Mae Hong
Son. The falls have been spoiled by a hydro-project, but the
climb on the sealed road up to the Hmong village of Ban NA Pa
Paek offers great views and access to a high plateau area used
for growing tea (Right turn for dirt road to Mae Aw. 6 kms.)
ST7
The Padaung or 'Long Necked' Karen
(KM.198.H1095.
Right turn [west] and after approx. 600 m. left turn [south].
20 kms. Asphalt except for last 2 kms. 150 min)
Follow
the signs after Ban Nai Soi (18 kms.) To reach the refugee village
of the Padaung. (Entrance 250 baht/head. Take small change if
planning to buy souvenirs).
Overview
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